Rebekka at the foot of
'Dead Queen in the Middle of the Road' (5.9)
The You Yang National Park is located about 55 km west south west of
Melbourne. It is centered around Flinders Peak, a mountain constellation in the middle of
the vast flat lava plains in this area.
To get to the You Yangs, take the Princes
Freeway towards Geelong. Use the Little River exit, and follow the signs to You Yangs. The
park entrance is from the south.
The park's entry gate closes at 16:30, but exit is possible after.
When arriving, you must register and apply for a climbing permit in addition to paying an
entrance fee (A$3). To get the permit is fast an easy. You sign on following park rules,
and specify where you plan to climb. Some of the more than 40 sites are closed due to
Peregrine Falcon nesting in the period 1. Aug. - 30. Nov. "Big Rock" is closed
on Sundays and public holidays.
To get to "Royalty Walls", follow the Great
Circle Road to the Rockwell Road Junction. Continue for about 200m around the bend and to
car park at top of hill. The site is about 50m up on the right, and easily seen from the
road.
Martin climbing 'Pockets of Sun' (5.11a)
Tonje climbing 'Live and Let Di' (5.8)
The site combines 15 - 20 routes from 5.3/5.4 to 5.11a, but mainly in the area of 5.7
to 5.9. Some of the routes have a few bolts, but mainly based on your own placements.
Bring a couple of long slings for turning points, and remember "bolt plates" for
the special hangerless Australian bolts.
