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Ditto Dones

Finally, I had the opporunity...



Ditto Dones

On Saturday the 14th of November, I set out to ascend Ditto Dones. This time I went by my own since my usual climbing partners were occupied with other activities this day. We singled out this characteristic pinnacle early this year, and have been talking about climbing it for months. All of us felt that this had to be done now before we get snow up there at 1100 meters.

The main route at Ditto Dones is "Via Lunga" of about 140 meters in length. This route consists of 6 - 8 rope lengths and varies in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.10c depending on your choice. Since I was climbing solo, the easiest alternative was chosen. Soloing requires a lot of strength, and usually takes more time because you are forced to climb each rope length twice (the second time on top rope). Thanks to my "newly developed" technique for soloing, the climb was faster than expected. The climb, covering five long rope lengths, took approximately 4 hours.

"Ditto Dones" at a distance
"Ditto Dones" at a distance
To reach Ditto Dones I went by train to Lecco. From the station I caught a bus and got off at Ballabio. Following the road up towards Piani Resinelli, I walked a couple of hundred meters before arriving at a small bar called "Trattoria Alleluia". Here I turned right into a small street and continued up a path marked with "N62". Following the path you arrive at a farm called "La Piazza". Here you will find a "Y" split on the path. Follow the one to the right marked by "N64" and you will shortly arrive at the beginning of "Via Lunga" marked by a pile of stones. This is about 45 min. walk in total (30 min. from "Trattoria Alleluia").
Finally, at the top of "Ditto Dones"!
Finally, at the top of "Ditto Dones"!
A very nice climb indeed, with good and solid rock. The routes are well bolted, but bring some nuts and "friends" for the easy parts. It is possible to skip some of the rope lengths by using some small paths and "ferratas". In this way, you might start on the middle or upper ledge. The descent is made easy by a "ferrata" coming down the upper part, and a path going from there and down to the foot of the pinnacle.
Nice view on the way up
Nice view on the way up
Martin soloing "Via Lunga" (5.9)
Martin soloing "Via Lunga" (5.9)

E-mail: martin@vestol.org
unni.lise@vestol.org
rebekka@vestol.org
daniel@vestol.org
Martin and Unni Vestøl
Kragerøveien 44
3770 Kragerø
Norway
Ph. (+47) 35 98 18 59
Fax. (+1) 847 792 4252

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Last updated 18.03.04 13:21