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Varenna: At the shore of Lago di Como

I rejoice greatly in the Lord...




This is a beautiful site for climbing. It is located on the eastern side of lago di Como, just north of Varenna. It takes you about 8 - 10 min. to walk from the station (Varenna - Esino). From the station you walk to the right along the road. After about 100 meter, you should see a small private looking passage going out to the right. Follow this passage, after two turns you get down a stair to the main road. Take right and walk through a small tunnel. After the tunnel you walk along the water for about 200 meters until reach the next tunnel. Turn left, out and around the corner and you are at the climbing site.

The main wall is approximately 35 meters high, with 7 - 10 routes. The routes, both 1 and 2 rope lengths, are in the range from 5.7 to the upper 5.10's. The bolts are generally in good condition, and are replaced from time to time. With an angle of 60 - 70 degrees and few or no good holds, this is a place for friction climbing. This gives an odd feeling at first, but it is an excellent opportunity to practice friction techniques.

Rebekka during her first swim
Rebekka during her first swim
Martin leading (5.7)
Martin leading (5.7)
In addition to the main wall, there are several less accessible walls 50 - 100 meters further up and north along the lake. You will find wires and ropes to ease the access. We do not have any information about these routes, since we have yet to climb any of them.
Anna-Maria climbing (5.7)
Anna-Maria climbing (5.7)
Omar on "Cervellone Quadro" (5.9)Omar on "Cervellone Quadro" (5.9)

E-mail: martin@vestol.org
unni.lise@vestol.org
rebekka@vestol.org
daniel@vestol.org
Martin and Unni Vestøl
Kragerøveien 44
3770 Kragerø
Norway
Ph. (+47) 35 98 18 59
Fax. (+1) 847 792 4252

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Last updated 18.03.04 13:21